VERY IMPORTANT PIECE OF ADVICE REQUIRED

[keyas143]

Hi everybody,
Hope you all will be fine. I just want to inquire about the propagation of Papaya and Fig.

Some people said that both of them can be grown from cuttings. If so any cutting or any specific part of the stem?

Secondly, any way to sex baby papaya seedlings? say 2 to 3 inch


I will be waiting patiently for your experienced answers.

Stay Blessed
May God be with you all
Good Day
Hanan

[M Farooq]

Papaya usually has a single trunk only. Never heard of a stem cutting of papaya.
It may not be easy to identify the gender in papaya seedlings, however, people have attempted it from the leaf form of the seedlings. I don't know the success rate.
Open the pdf here and see figures 1 and 2 of the seedlings.
http://researchinbiotechnology.com/article/view/68/65

[keyas143]

Papaya usually has a single trunk only. Never heard of a stem cutting of papaya.
It may not be easy to identify the gender in papaya seedlings, however, people have attempted it from the leaf form of the seedlings. I don't know the success rate.
Open the pdf here and see figures 1 and 2 of the seedlings.
http://researchinbiotechnology.com/article/view/68/65

Dear you are a very experienced person. Will you please give a look at google results clearly showing both can be grown from cuttings and just give me your opinion on it?

[M Farooq]

Keyas, I have never grown papaya and fig by stem cuttings. I recall seeing air layering for figs but check with a nursery guy.You are right there are reliable google images, so it must be possible. You may try and share the results as most of us are hobbyists not plant/botany experts. It is very easy to grow papaya by seeds, but then you don't know the gender. In any case, you will need both male and female papaya to have it bear fruits.
Regards.

[Muhammad Arif Khan]

For happiness forget PAPAYA try fig.
Arif

[newton]

The fig in most of Pakistans climate and conditions is successful, the Papaya is a bit more fusssy in terms of requiring a dry-ish soil in winter and not too wet in summer or else it rots. In a flood like the monsoon they will be the first to rot. It also does not come true to seed. It dos not traansplant very well at all. Seedlings have a very high mortality rate and are best grown onsite.

If you wish to propogate them from cutting then the following commercial technique is a good guide, generally cuttings will fruit much quicker than seed grown plants.

For successful rooting of leafy cuttings, strict sanitation is essential, otherwise stem rots can kill the cuttings and papay are partcularly susceptible to it. The well-drained rooting medium must be sterilised by steam or chemicals between successive batches of cuttings.

Leafy cuttings are taken from young side shoots during the summer when the stem is still green this aslo means removing the growing tip of an established tree.. They normally take 4 to 6 weeks to develop roots.

Cuttings can also be taken in the spring and autumn, but the success rate is lower.

The technique is to take cuttings which are at least 20 cm long and at least 2 cm in diameter, and remove all leaves except the 3 to 4 developing ones with vertical leaf stalks. All other leaves are cut back leaving about 10 cm of the leaf stalk.

The reason for leaving the leaf stalks is to ensure that if bacterial infection occurs at the cut end of the stalk, it will not be able to progress far before natural abscission develops at the base of the petiole. By cutting the leaf stalks long, it prevents the chance of bacterial infection of the stem of the cutting.

After trimming the leaves, the base of the cutting is dipped in a root-promoting powder such as indole-butyric acid (IBA). A powder formulation of 1 percent IBA or a concentrated quick dip of the cutting in a 2000 to 4000 p.p.m. lBA in 5 percent ethanol gives good results.

Bottom heat at 25°C applied by electric heating cables beneath the rooting medium also hastens rooting.

Intermittent mist applied during the daylight hours keeps the leaves cool and turgid. This allows plants to photosynthesize carbohydrates while the roots are being incubated.

Once rooted, the cuttings are potted in small plastic bags with drainage holes, and are left under mist for about 10 days.

They are then hardened off in a shade house prior to transplanting to their permanent positions.

The rooted cuttings should be planted as deep as possible without covering the growing point with soil.

[Muhammad Arif Khan]

A Comprehensive advice.
How many plants you want to grow?
Except for some, most varieties do not survive the Lahore winter,Survivors of winter will not survive the Dangue season as you will not be able to refuse the leaves to the patients relatives.
For best results treat them as bi-yearly crop.

[M Farooq]

http://rfcarchives.org.au/Next/Fruits/P ... gs7-82.htm. It is not bad practice at all to acknowledge verbatim passages.

For successful rooting of leafy cuttings, strict sanitation is essential, otherwise stem rots can kill the cuttings and papay are partcularly susceptible to it. The well-drained rooting medium must be sterilised by steam or chemicals between successive batches of cuttings.

Leafy cuttings are taken from young side shoots during the summer when the stem is still green this aslo means removing the growing tip of an established tree.. They normally take 4 to 6 weeks to develop roots.

Cuttings can also be taken in the spring and autumn, but the success rate is lower.

The technique is to take cuttings which are at least 20 cm long and at least 2 cm in diameter, and remove all leaves except the 3 to 4 developing ones with vertical leaf stalks. All other leaves are cut back leaving about 10 cm of the leaf stalk.

The reason for leaving the leaf stalks is to ensure that if bacterial infection occurs at the cut end of the stalk, it will not be able to progress far before natural abscission develops at the base of the petiole. By cutting the leaf stalks long, it prevents the chance of bacterial infection of the stem of the cutting.

After trimming the leaves, the base of the cutting is dipped in a root-promoting powder such as indole-butyric acid (IBA). A powder formulation of 1 percent IBA or a concentrated quick dip of the cutting in a 2000 to 4000 p.p.m. lBA in 5 percent ethanol gives good results.

Bottom heat at 25°C applied by electric heating cables beneath the rooting medium also hastens rooting.

Intermittent mist applied during the daylight hours keeps the leaves cool and turgid. This allows plants to photosynthesize carbohydrates while the roots are being incubated.

Once rooted, the cuttings are potted in small plastic bags with drainage holes, and are left under mist for about 10 days.

They are then hardened off in a shade house prior to transplanting to their permanent positions.

The rooted cuttings should be planted as deep as possible without covering the growing point with soil.

[Muhammad Bilal]

Fig Injeer can be propagated by cutting. Just take 6" ,having minimum 4 buds, one year old healthy stem's cutting(previous season). take the cutting early in the morning at this time stems are full of water and propagated early in the sprig after the last frost has gone and in tunnel one can propagate it in January month as well.

[keyas143]

Fig Injeer can be propagated by cutting. Just take 6" ,having minimum 4 buds, one year old healthy stem's cutting(previous season). take the cutting early in the morning at this time stems are full of water and propagated early in the sprig after the last frost has gone and in tunnel one can propagate it in January month as well.

Thanks Muhammad Bilal